PRIMER FOR TURBO REGAL RACERS

The following items should be considered if you want to get the best from your T.R.

     A) Knock Detector/Alert: Alerts you to detonation that is not otherwise detectable by driver. Detonation occurs mostly unobserved by the driver who does not have an alerter/detector, but the computer will know and slow the car by retarding the timing, and lowering boost. Detonation is a very serious, engine damaging condition, and should be avoided at all costs.

The detector is important as a tuning tool and not just a safety device. All T.R. owners should have this comparatively inexpensive device, and be religiously governed by it indications. Detectors may be triggered by drive-train noises, such as shifts, tire spin, exhaust pipe rattle etc. This might be unavoidable but should be the only time that it does go off.

     B) 30 psi Boost Gauge - 20-25 psi will not register properly on 20 psi gauge. Most performance is in that range.

     C) Ability to adjust boost. Threaded Waste-gate rod, and or additional springs. Allows the ability to adjust spring pressure on the mechanical waste-gate assembly. This pressure directly cross-references to boost psi. Shortening or lengthing the rod by turning the threaded portion in or out will result in an aproximate 1 psi of boost adjustment for each complete rotation. This effect can be accomplished by using an additional spring attached to the arm of the waste-gate to increase the seating pressure of the waste-gate.   

     D) Bleeder valve. Can be mounted anywhere including inside the passenger compartment, for easy driver accessibility. This enables the driver to fine tune boost while driving. This device increases boost by bleeding off the compressed air from turbo that is used to force open the waste-gate, therefore, causing less pressure and less opening. This means more boost.

The factory original equipment includes a bleeder valve located on the right valve cover. This bleeder is controlled by the car's computer. This bleeder can be bypassed and replaced by an aftermarket valve. Leave the factory bleeder plugged in to the electrical connection to avoid setting a service engine light. The computer will assume that its still in control of the boost.

I recommend using only one or the other, and not both valves. The ECM computer controlling the stock valve will be trying to adjust the boost by opening & closing the valve at the same time that you will be trying to make adjustments. This bleeder will only allow an increase above the baseline boost setting, and will not allow a lowering of the boost level to lower than that base line setting. The base line setting is what the spring tension at the actuator control rod is set to. With the bleeder closed, the boost should be at one or two P.S.I. below the threshold of detonation for the fuel used. If there is detonation, adjust the baseline boost setting lower at the control arm by lowering the seating spring pressure.

Fuel.

The quality of your fuel will dictate the power that you are able to make. Quality is never cheap.

Spend the money on good fuel, its worth it.                 

     When the higher octane of racing fuel is desired. When adding high octane racing fuel, keep in mind that there will be some dilution from remaining fuel in tank, even when empty to the point of not being able to pump any more out. Also, do not try to get the last drop out as this is hard on your pump. Once it starts pulsing air, it is time to quit.

     This process of dumping fuel is very time consuming. I find it more convenient to run out of fuel on the way to the track and then add the racing fuel right there and drive the rest of the way on that. This solves the problem of carrying an extra empty fuel container to dump street fuel into. You can use the room for other stuff. A simple computation should allow you to have proper amount of fuel in your tank to get close to the track, then run out. 20-25 mpg, approximately 16-17 gallon tank, approximately 4 gals. per 1/4 tank. 1/4 tank should get 80 to 100 miles. Remember to have fuel packed so it's handy to get at without unpacking entire trunk. Also have a funnel handy.        

     Octane booster fuel additives are not very effective in cost or performance. I recommend against them. Sometimes the additives will claim to raise the octane by several points. These points that they refer to are commonly 1/10 of an actual octane number. Their terminology is suspect, to say they least! Some of these will foul the O2 sensors worse than leaded racing fuel.

      Remember leaded fuel will poison your catalytic converter, so have a test pipe made for "off road use only". You can have a dump made on the side of it to uncap for added exhaust press relief. You can also have your converter flanged to the down-pipe so you can change out test pipe to converter yourself. Simple bolt in swap. Make sure to run some unleaded to flush the system before replacing the converter.

      Leaded racing fuel will have an adverse affect on your 02 sensor which can cause the "service engine soon" light to come on intermittently. This is unavoidable with heavy fuels. The O2 sensors are not too difficult to change. Have a fresh one in for emissions test, use old one for leaded fuels.